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ESCORT PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE

5 Archibald MacLeish: 85 Boulevard Saint-Michel

MacLeish lived in many locations in Paris during his many visits, but he lived here when he made his very first visit in 1923. He was trained as a lawyer when he arrived that year, but would earn his fame as a poet, dramatist (lE.), and Librarian of Congress. MacLeish, who had a gift for friendship, soon became closely associated with Hemingway, whom he praised for 'the one intrinsic style our language has produced in this century'. MacLeish, Hemingway, Dos Passos, Gerald Murphy, and their wives skied in Austria and sunned themselves on the Riviera. In part because Joyce liked to sing with Ada MacLeish, Archibald was a friend of Joyce; in later years he would send a cheque to Sylvia Beach for a case of white Alsatian wine for Joyce each Christmas.
In later years MacLeish, in an article in the Saturday Review, explained and defended his generation in the 1920s as a generation that had been failed by its own country. In the 'greatest period of literary and artistic innovation since the Renaissance', the 'song may have been tragic, but the song itself was new .... Not philosophy, not the church, but the painters and poets and composers of those years showed us what and where we were'.

6 Students' Hostel: 93 Boulevard Saint-Michel

Here, facing the School of Mines and the Luxembourg Gardens, is the Foyer International des Etudiants (students' hostel), open to students of all nationalities since the First World War. Innumerable students and young would-be artists stayed here during the 1920s.
During the Second World War Sylvia Beach hid here after being released from internment camp, where she spent six months of 1942 (after the United States entered the war against Germany). Beach 'lived happily in the little kitchen at the top of the house' with Miss Sarah Watson (herself interned for a while) and her assistant, Madame Marcelle Fournier. Fournier told me in 1969 that the kitchen sink dripped constantly, though Beach claimed it made her think she was in a Japanese garden. Beach had returned to 18 rue de l'Odeon by 1944 when Hemingway arrived with his jeeps to 'liberate' Odeonia.
The iron- and glass-work on the front of this building make it one of the most beautiful sites on the boulevard. Just a few steps further up the boulevard in Hotel de l'Univers (now Hotel de l'Observatoire on the corner) lived Alice B. Toklas in 1907-8, when she was beginning her friendship

7 Boulevard Saint-Michel (Boul' Mich')

In The Sun Also Rises, Jake Barnes, who lives in an apartment on the Boul' Mich', describes his walk down to the rue Soufflot for breakfast:
In the morning I walked down the Boulevard to the rue Soufflot for coffee and brioche. It was a fine morning. The horse-chestnut trees in the Luxembourg gardens were in bloom. There was the pleasant early-morning feeling of a hot day. I read the papers with the coffee and then smoked a cigarette. The flower-women were coming up from the market and arranging their daily stock. Students went by going up to the law school, or down to the Sorbonne. The Boulevard was busy with trams and people going to work. I got on an S bus and rode down to the Madeleine, standing on the back platform. From the Madeleine I walked along the Boulevard des Capucines to the Opera, and up to my office.
Where Jake had his brioche and coffee is now probably one of the fast-food establishments that blight the street.
Before entering Place de la Sorbonne, turn left off the Boul' Mich' into rue de Vaugirard, the longest street in Paris. Just around the corner on the left is the Hotel Trianon Palace, where Richard Wright (author of Black Boy and Native Son) lived briefly in the 1940s. Number 4 is in the next block on the right.

8 Ned Calmer and Bill Shirer: 4 rue de Vaugirard

Several fellow American journalists of Hemingway lived here in the 1920s in the Hotel de Lisbonne (now Hotel Luxembourg). They served as models, as did Hemingway himself, for Jake Barnes. William L. Shirer and Edgar (Ned) Calmer, both newspapermen and friends of Hemingway, left their impressions of the Hotel de Lisbonne. Shirer praises the spacious rooms, large writing tables and bookcases, but despairs of the hall toilets:
There was a so-called stand-up toilet by the stairwell on each floor. But it took some practice and a great deal of dexterity to use it. ... The trick was to achieve a proper balance without keeling over and then, at the end, keeping your balance, to reach high for the nail on the soggy wall from which old cut-up newspapers hung. Private toilets have since been installed, and the hotel was entirely refurbished in 1981. Ned Calmer, who wrote a novel about the hotel in 1961 (All the Summer Days), lived there for a good part of seven years. When Hemingway discovered in 1933 that Calmer's two-year-old daughter was not baptized he expressed alarm, helped arrange the ceremony, and served as godfather.