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PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE

I live on the TIe St. Louis, in the Seine, a beautifully old seedy part of Paris that I love - I spend my srare time writing and sketching up and down the river.
John Dos Passos, in a little patisserie on the TIe Saint-Louis

n the 5th arrondissement (Se), east of the Boul' Mich', Emest and Hadley Hemingway made their first home in Paris. They moved into an apartment near the top of the Montagne Saint-Cenevieve (once inhabited by the Romans), in rue du Cardinal-Lemoine. Across the Place de la Contrescarpe was 'the narrow crowded world of the rue Mouffetard', as Hemingway's Harry remembers it in 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro': 'There was never another part of Paris that he loved like that'.

Hemingway was at his most intense and impressionable during this first year in Paris. He rented a room around the corner in rue Descartes in which to write. When he reached an impasse in his writing, he would plunge down the stairs of his working studio and into the narrow cobblestoned streets to absorb the impressions of this old quarter. He was particularly attentive to the workers and the drunks, the smell of food, and the movement of the Seine. He enjoyed crossing the bridges of Paris. For a visual writer, to whom place and detail are vital, the sights and sounds of this first neighbourhood were the background of his artistic development and the subject matter for short story and memoir. In both 'The Snows of Kilimanjaro' and A Moveable Feast, the protagonist/narrator is a man at the end of his life, his talent on the wane, who is looking back to the vital days of creative development. These are the streets and buildings that were the stage and impetus for his creative development.

The Latin Quarter is the home of the University of Paris, founded in 1215 and separated into 13 autonomous universities in 1970; the massive Pantheon, burial place for Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, and others; Saint-Etienne-du-Mont church, where Pascal and Racine are buried; and the crowded old neighbourhood of the Place de la Contrescarpe. To the east lies the Jardin des Plantes, to the southwest the Val-de-Grace Church. For Hemingway this region was characterized particularly by its narrow cobblestone streets and the working-class shops and stalls. Most of the cobblestone streets have recently been resurfaced and it is no longer the working-class neighbourhood it was in 1922. Yet enough remains to pique the imagination of those who read the opening pages of A Moveable Feast.

Before visiting the Place de la Contrescarpe region of Hemingway's first Paris home, begin with a visit to the quiet island called TIe Saint-Louis, where you can drop into one of the many tea rooms or picnic and meditate on the benches along the quai. Hemingway loved the quais and the river, patronized little cafes here, and was a regular in 1923 at the offices of two important expatriate presses on the Quai d'Anjou: Bill Bird's Three Mountains Press publishing company and Ford's Transatlantic Review.
John Dos Passos, before he had published any novels, lived between 1918 and 1921 in three different apartments located in the territory covered by this chapter. The first one was located on the TIe Saint-Louis, where he livea in July 1918, not long after having met Hemingway briefly in Italy. Dos Passos describes this 'beautifully old seedy part of Paris'. While drinking cold chocolate in a little patisserie here he wrote home to a friend, 'I spend my spare time writing and sketching up and down the river . . . and wander about and go to little restaurants and outlandish little cafes'.

Whether you visit one or all of the sites on the island - and there is nothing to see but the facades of the original buildings - you should walk the quais and look inside any historical buildings to which the doors are open. Capture a sense of the comfort and quiet of this island.